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Sleeping in the Somerset shepherds hut imported from th UK was the best nights sleep I’ve had for several weeks, actually a couple of months!  It probably had something to do with knowing the ‘box’ was entirely secure from rodents and a size that could be monitored, as well as feeling familiar to the caravan in Norfolk.  Jay also started his 3 weeks of leave so we were able to spend the whole of our days together.

Set back from the road and opposite the Nanyuki landing strip One Stop was definatly the noisiest place we had stayed so far but was interesting to watch the small comercial and private helicopters and planes come and go (it is possible to fly in from Wilson in Nairobi to Nanyuki although theu are are booked well in advance (unless you have many US dollars to spend).  As the hut had limited catering facilities we had breakfast in Barneys located next to the landing strip.  We were not the only people enjoying the free show, many people, adults and children alike lined the fence to watch the aircraft as they took off and landed before sqeezing into mini buses and driving off.  I recalled Dad taking us kids to an airport as children to watch larger aircraft take off and land.  As a child I did not consider where the planes were going to, or came from, but now as an adult and especially as we consider the best location for our furture plans it is a crucial element.

Soames was a 20 minute walk away according to Google maps.  Described as a boutique hotel and restaurant we decided to go for lunch there the next day. I convinced Jay a cab was not necessary and we should walk. Considering this to be a crazy idea Jay decided we should first consult the management at one stop who agreed with him, the sun was far too hot! but the area was safe.  Mad dogs and English men…we walked.  Walking against the traffic, so we are not touted by matatu’s we passed kiosks and small clusters of shambas with dwellings built mainly of concrete and corrugated sheets. There were a few larger and grander properties which were just visable over very high walls with mature trees obscuring them, as well as a new housing estate being built. Similar to what I experienced in Naivasha, people were friendly once the ice was broken and we greeted them (again we were obvious foreigners and no doubt the locals were curious why two muzugos were walking along a perfectly good road).   I took is just under an hour to walk along the dirt track running parallel to the road then up the  track to Soames.  The food and service were good and there was plenty of bird life to watch, we observed what we decided was a snake eagle scouting the surrounding bush for a meal. Snakes are the creatures I worry about most in this country, most will bite and some are deadly.  In the walk back to one stop we stopped at a kiosk and bought water, bread, weetabix (sold in a double pack) and some peanuts which came to the grand total of 200ksh. Bringing out a 1000ksh more the proprietor shook her head as she did not have change.  I was able to pay her with Mpesa as an agent which incurred a small cast to me.  Jay and I estimated the same items would have cost 3 or 4 times as much in the supermarket.

Our next stop is Kidogo cottage where we will be for 9 days, time enough to kick back and relax and explore Nanyuki properly.

Mount Kenya has extremely special importance to the Kikuyu people of Kenya.  Jomo Kenyetta’s book Facing Mount Kenya documents the customs and history of the largest tribe in Kenya.  ‘Kere-Nyaga’, ‘Mount Kenya’ which means: that which posses brightness, or mountain of brightness explains that their God, Ngai, lives in the sky but has temporary homes on earth, situated on mountains.  Described as a Ngai’s official resting place, this majestic and mysterious peak certainly looked the part this morning as the sun burnt off the moisture for a few minutes before shrouding it again in a cloak of cloud.  We had spent the weekend at the Boat House in Mukima House Estate.  With its own dam and an abundance of bird and wildlife it is a real gem in the bush just outside of Nanyuki.  Of course being close to nature sometimes means being upfront too.  We were awoken our final night by something running over us, my shoulder and Jays throat … another night with the light on LOL!

Our next stop is ‘one stop’ offering quaint stylish sheperds huts from Somerset Jay and I should be right at home in these pocket size obodes… providing they are rodent proof!

Nanyuki town is North of Nairobi and North East of Naivasha. The scenery changed dramatically as we travelled firstly South, then East to pick up the best and fastest route North.

We travelled through rural towns, large agricultual areas with poly tunnels and field after field of banana, sugar cane and beans. Then busy towns with well dressed locals on their way to church, followed by small forested areas which gradually turned to small shambas with houses perched on the side of steep hills.  These areas were lush and green intrupted by dryer areas where vendors sold chairs made from local materials with seat cushions made from traditional Masai material. As we climbed higher (I’m pretty sure my ears popped at some stage)  the landscape changed to a dry arid high on a sun scorced plateau, I could see the tips of mountainous areas in the distance, but here there was nothing… just a train track running alongside the road and the occasional structure in the distance but these looked deserted.   People must live though as a bodaboda station with a few touters was at the side of the road. As we approached Nanyuki small towns and increasing numbers of people appeared along the roadside.  The garbage also started to increase with the chickens and goats picking through it for food.

Nanyuki is where Jay works at present for a construction/logistic company on the British Army base that was set up over 3 decades ago. Squadies complete their altitude training on Mount Kenya and it could be said they have not done much to enhance relationships between the UK and Kenyan locals if you believe the stories in the press and rumours of how children are ill treated by training military, and ‘working’ women are abused and the occasional murder.  It is a fact that Nanyuki has the highest level of orphaned children in Kenya.

Speaking to the local hotel and bar proprietors and workers, the military base has indeed bought tourism and jobs to the area, however it has also bought the threat of terrorism from al shabab which has had a negative impact on the tourism trade.

I am not convinced this area is suitable for our future plan… but I have not seen all Nanyuki has to offer so will reserve my final judgement, after all such an important decision should not be rushed.

Naivasha has been my first lone experience of Kenya.  The people  in and around the town have been friendly and helpful. Having several tourist attractions and being only two hours from the city it is a popular weekend break location for Nairobians. Now my volunteering was over I too was keen to see what Naivasha had to offer.

We had a 20 minute drive along a dirt track to join the main highway to visit the tourist haunts of Hells Gate National Park where we clambered down bolders and walked along the trickling water which becomes a torrant of water in wet season, and a quick visit its geo thermal pool before having lunch at Ranch House Diner.  We also visited Sanctury Farm where we walked through herds of zebra, wilderbeast, thompson gazelle, and a troop of velvet monkeys as well as walking along the shore of Lake Naivasha with its abudent bird life, thankfully we did not see any hippos or water buffalo who are the most dangerous wild animals in Kenya. Flower farms surround much of the lake using the fresh water for watering and irrigation. The flowers which are picked in the morning arrive in Europe by midday for distribution further afield.  We drove past workers accommodation blocks with brightly coloured clothes drying on endless washing lines, children playing in the dusty road and walkways between the buildings and the usual goats, chickens, cows and donkeys picking through garbage for discarded maize cobs.  The workers on the farms work a 7 hour day 6 days a week and I should not imagine live very differently to the ladies in the shelter, very basic.   Saying that everyone appears to be happy and always has time to greet and talk to you.

I know this area, although beautiful will not be right for Jay and I’s future plans, but am thankful we had the opportunity to check it out 😊.  Next stop Nanyuki at the base of Mount Kenya ….

I have been at Enkuso Ntelon for 3 nights.  It is remote and beautiful here, surrounded by an acacia forest there are plenty of birds, butterflies and insects to observe, unfortunately I don’t have any of my wildlife guides with me so havnt a clue what most of them are!  Saffron, James and Ellie have joined me and each morning we have had a walk either down to the river or up the track through the forest.  Apart from the occasional local or herd of cows we havnt really encountered another living being.  On the first day I walked to the communication tower by myself.  From there I spotted Columbus Monkeys in the tree tops but they were too far away to get a good picture.

Night brings the usual unnerving noise of hyrax screaming and crickets chirping which I’m getting used to .  We are the only house for about a half mile radius so the lights attract many flying insects but we are too high (altitude wise) for mosquitos for which I am thankful.  Regardless, I switch off every possible light at night and sleep with open curtains so that I can see the magnificent sky studded with stars and the light from the moon 😊.